The wall hung easi-plan wall hung wc toilet frame is now being used by an increasing number of people in their bathrooms. A bathroom or wet room is not just a place where you take a bath or shower it is a place to relax.  The advantage of using wall hung WC Toilet pans because it clears the floor space it makes the bathroom or shower room look bigger also easier to keep clean. It is very different from the standard toilet but not in terms of functionality. Ther are 3 sizes available 0.82 WC Frame can be used in a furniture run, 0.98 WC Frame so it can be fitted under a bathroom window and finally there is the 1.18 WC Frame used in mainly in commercial situations. There are a number of WC press panels for the wall hung frames the images below are for use on the 0.82 frame and the 0.98. Click on the image to see further options.

WC Press Panel flush buttons

The water tank, drain pipe and other components excluding the bowl are hidden behind the wall. With the use of a wall hung toilet frame which is usually made of galvenised steel, the toilet is securely attached to the wall with fisher fixing bolts. The support system has been weight tested to 400Kg.

Since the water tank is hidden, the unit can free up space with an installation depth of only 120mm. Another feature of the wall hung toilet that makes it different is that it’s adjustable. allowing you to connect to existing soil pipes you can also set the frame height at any height desired. This gives more convenience especially for households that have children or elderly people. The WC toilet is also has a dual flush technology 3 litre and 6 litre flushing.

Geberit are the main known manufacturers of wall hung units but there are new frames out now with WRAS approval which are more competively priced the easi-plan wall hung frames and offer more choice in the flushing plates available.It is important to Make sure that the wall is strong enough to get a secure anchoring wall like modern house brick are fine what is a proble sometimes is trying to fix the fram in an old cottage which has random stone walling,

Wall hung Toilet frame

We offer a complete range of JIS Sussex Radiators (also known as Sussex towel rails or warmers). You can choose from many designs and sizes to suit your exact requirements. The JIS Sussex Radiators (or Sussex Towel Rails) are made from polished stainless steel and are available with an optional satin finish.

There are 15 different Styles in the JIS Sussex collections: Adur, Alfriston, Ansty, Arun, Ashdown, Beacon, Camber, Cinder, Coombe, Hove, Lewis, Newhaven, Newick, Ouse and Rusper something different and all offer the quality and fresh design concepts that JIS Sussex Towel warmers are so well known for.

If you have any questions about Sussex Radiators don’t hesitate to contact one of our team on 01752 481360.

JIS Cinder Towel Rail

The Classic Cinder towel rail JIS Sussex Central heating straight towel rail. BTU 410, watts 120. 100% stainless steel. All towel radiators are designed to allow an element to be inserted into the right hand side of the radiator. A left hand option is available on request. (Please phone for left hand option)
A satin finish is available for 30% extra, (please phone to order satin finish model)

JIS Dual Fual adaptor

JIS Sussex The NEW Dual Fuel Valve set with TRV eliminates the need for a T-Piece, Ideal for applications requiring symmetrical pipe centres with dual fuel kits, This is used when in the summer or when you have your central heating system switched off,  you can switch on the electric element which will then heat the towel rail this element can be run through a digital timer so it comes on at set times of the day.

JIS Dual Fuel Electric Elements

The dual fuel elements can be also be used in towel rails as an electric only option either with a thermostat to control the temperature or non thermostatic but will cut out when it reaches its operating temperature, all electirc elements can be fitted at the factory and you can choose if you require the electrical supply on the left or right hand side (Please Note this is only offered for electric option towel rails only.

The ultimate in wet room luxury. X Series offers a range of twelve sizes of 10mm toughened glass panels all with ClearShield coating.Together with a comprehensive range of support bars and channels, X Series lets you be totally creative in your wetroom design whilst offering outstanding value. With over 25 years of field experience and proven results, ClearShield is the pioneer and market leader of Low-Maintenance / Easy Clean Glass Technology.
The ClearShield System has won numerous awards for providing unique solutions for the renovation, protection and maintenance of glass. all ways look for this logo.

Clearshield Technology

• Keeps glass looking like new
• Reduces water spots (limescale and mineral deposits)
• Is always easier to clean
• Stays cleaner for longer
• Significantly reduces the growth of bacteria

Wet room 10mm glass shower panels

The X Series begins with a range of 12 glass panels which can be used collectively
or independently to create any shower combination you wish for. they come in the following sizes.

Widths: 290mm – 390mm – 490mm – 590mm – 690mm – 735mm

Widths: 790mm – 835mm – 890mm – 990mm – 1090 – 1190mm

Finished height of 200mm and a thickness of 10mm

Wet room Series Glass Channels

The recessessed glass channel has a small lip on each side which allows the tile to be cut very popular option although a lot of tilers shy away from using them as it takes more time to cut the tiles in but it is worth it!!

Elements Wet room 10mm glass recessed channels

The surface option is the most popular but as you can see you have a large proportion of the glass channel exposed but they are a lot easier to fit after tiling has been completed both channels come in 1 metre lengths and 2 metre lengths.

Elements Wet room 10mm glass surface channels

Wet room Support Brackets

We have a range of wet room 10mm glass support bars for fixing the end of the glass to either the ceiling or across a corner or back to an adjasent  wall we have put the adjustments below.

Vessini 10mm glass shower screen support brackets

]]> http://www.bathroomlifestyle.com/blog/articles/vessini-x-series-wet-room-glass/feed/ 0 http://www.bathroomlifestyle.com/blog/articles/wet-room-flooring-system/ http://www.bathroomlifestyle.com/blog/articles/wet-room-flooring-system/#comments Mon, 19 Sep 2011 13:55:46 +0000 admin http://www.bathroomlifestyle.com/blog/?p=253 Continue reading →]]> Elements wet room floor systems and Linear drain shower trays.

Wet Room design can seem confusing at first – we aim to make it as easy as possible for you to get the bathroom you want.  In this article we will show you the basics of  Wet room design and construction. A good place to start is Tanking (waterproofing). There are different ways to ‘Tank’ a wet room – a practical solution that we recommend is the use of  Water proof membrane Board.

Wedi Board is the eponymous name for this type of application, as this was the original wet room board introduced.  Now the range of water proof board has expanded, and includes a range of new Wet Room Board and Wet Room Accessories that we recommend.

The Wet Room Board and Linear Shower Trays we work with is called Elements Wet Room Waterproofing Board. Which is 100% waterproof and allows a much greater adhesive grip to tiles, making it a much better substrate to work from than plasterboard or timber (ie Marine Ply).  The High Compressive Strength can also support a much greater weight of tiles. As can be seen Below, the board can be set on top of existing floor-boards. to see the product on the website click on the images. Once the board is down, and the seams are taped up the room is already waterproof, even before tiling.  By making the room fully-waterproof before tiling, it is much easier to carry out First-Fixing.  This means work can be done without the worry of either damage to finished surfaces like tiles, or flooding.

Elements Wet Room Flooring Installation

Elements Wet Room Shower Trays with Intergrated Wastes

1. First things first – turn the water supply off, or you’ll end up looking like a drowned rat. This can usually be done by turning the valve under the sink. If you can’t find a valve you’ll have to turn the water off for the whole building. Remember the old mantra ‘lefty loosey, righty tighty’, even the experts still use this one. When you have done this, turn the tap on to drain out the remaining water in the system

1. Remove the Headgear (Handle,Gland Cover,)

   There are loads of different types of stem tap, but they work in the same way in that there’ll be a decorative cap covering the gubbins. Use a flat head screwdriver to prise that off then undo the screw underneath. Next, lift off the headgear with your fingers. Don’t use a wrench or spanner as you’ll damage it.

   If your tap doesn’t have a cap, you should find a small screw on the side. Unscrew this to lift off the headgear.

2. The packing nut

   Use the adjustable spanner to release the hexagonal packing nut. It can be pretty stiff, so grab the spout of the tap with your other hand for leverage. Once the nut is loose lift out the entire tap stem.

3. Replace the washer

   At the bottom of the stem you’ll find the washer, there may also be a small nut holding it in place. Use the pliers or your fingers to remove the nut. Then prise out the washer. This can be pretty tricky, but take your time and you’ll get there. It’s most likely that you’ll be able to see the damage to your washer. Pick a washer nearest in size to the damaged one, slide it onto the stem and replace the nut. Give the stem a quick rub down with wire wool to remove any built up lime scale and dirt.

4. Check the seat

   Have a feel for wear into the bits still fixed to the sink, and give them a good scrub the wire wool to get rid of any debris or limescale.

5. Reassemble

   Put the tap back together and don’t forget to tighten everything up well. Then turn the water back on a check your handy work. Not a drip in sight. Another job well done.

The valve is very straight forward to install follow the following steps

1)      Pull out the 2 push buttons on the top of cistern

2)      Unscrew the chrome holder with a flat headed screw driver, remove the cistern cover

3)      Turn the flushing valve anti-clockwise (May be a bit tight) the unit should then separate away from the green ring see below situated  near the bottom (Some earlier models were the same colour as the unit) you will be left with the bottom section which has the overflow built in, keep this as a spare as this is only for the connection to the wc pan and is not what causes the original issue water keeps running out into toilet,

If you wanted to fit this as well it would be advisable to have a plumber do this for you, but it is not really required only on new installations.

4)      Replace with new flushing valve, and slide the top section which has slots down each side so it touches the underside of cistern lid.

5)      Then follow steps 1 and 2

To purchase click on this link: Geberit Impuls 260 Dual flush valve Geberit Adjustable dual flushing valve unit it comes complete with flush buttons. You can leave the existing connection in at the bottom of the cistern and just replace the cylindrical section above allowing an easy change over with out using a plumber!! Reference: 261.157.00.1

Central Heating Systems Advice Sheet

To help you make decisions in making Hansgrohe or Axor purchases we have explained the differences between the principle types of heating system found in the UK:

Gravity hot water system

This is a traditional open vented system with gravity fed domestic hot water heating (DHW) and central heating that is pumped around the system. In this traditional open-vented design, the system is fed with water and kept under pressure via gravity-fed water from the main header tank in the loft. The hot water cylinder is heated simply via a gravity hot water circuit from the boiler, and central heating is provided via a separate pumped circuit from the boiler.

A separate header/expansion tank is used to feed the DHW to prevent the risk of contamination with the primary circuit water. If your water pressure is low, you might consider increasing it with a pump. These are especially useful when building a high flow-rate shower or wet room. A good pump to use is in shower installations is the Aktivated Twin Impellar Pumps.

Fully pumped system

Over the last 25 years in the UK the fully pumped, open vented system has become the number one choice of installation whether it’s for new build or is a replacement system.

This is the standard open vented system as above with both the domestic hot water and central heating both controlled on the same single pumped circuit from the boiler (hence the term: “fully pumped system”).

Such a system provides increased control over domestic hot water heating and quicker heating times which in turn leads to better system performance and increased efficiency.

Sealed system (vented DHW)

The sealed system is an ever increasingly popular type of heating system due to its simplified design. The system is fed and pressurised with water direct from the mains, then sealed. This eliminates the need for the system water feed tank and open vent pipe work in the loft.

This therefore simplifies and reduces the cost of the installation process and reduces maintenance requirements (there are less components to maintain!). In the diagram on the left a conventional tank-fed indirect hot water cylinder has been used with its own header tank in the loft. If you require additional heating in the summer, especially with Towel Warmers and Heated Towel Rails, you can connect the towel radiators on the secoundary return this is the pipework which runs between the boiler and the water cylinder this also acts as a the same as an automatic  by-pass to get the heat away from the boiler. Here is an example of electric elements this can be seen here particular Element is for use with JIS Towel Rails

Sealed system (unvented DHW)

“Unvented” system boilers (as opposed to “open/vented” systems) feed direct from the mains water supply and are supplied as a packaged unit comprising all the necessary controls and safety devices.

A mains pressure unvented domestic hot water cylinder is used and so all tanks/pipework are eliminated from the loft. The whole heating system is completely sealed (i.e. “unvented”) which removes the risk of freezing pipes in the loft, does away with maintenance work in the loft and reduces the risk of system leakage.

Unvented sealed system boilers benefit the end user with increased flow rate on their domestic hot water to all outlets in the property as it is held at mains pressure.

Combination boiler

A combination (or combi) boiler is like a standard unvented boiler, only with a second heating circuit (the domestic hot water circuit) to provide instant hot water on demand – thus the name ‘combination boiler’. On an HRM combi the secondary circuit is fed directly from the mains water supply to the plated heat exchanger and so, as long as the boiler is firing, there is no limit to the amount of hot water that can be produced.

In an age where space is a highly sought after commodity, combination boilers are understandably becoming ever more popular. All water tanks in the loft and even the domestic hot water cylinder are done away and hot water is heated instantaneously, on demand by the boiler.

They are ideal for flats and smaller households with low/ infrequent hot water consumption, especially where space is at a premium, but for homes with more than one bathroom it is generally worth considering stored hot water by means of a cylinder.

Kitchen and Bathroom mixers do not require as high pressures as showers, and as such, do not often need to be pump assisted. If you have a low flow-rate in a mixer tap, Hansgrohe provide a facillity to specify that a product is to be used in a low pressure situation.